Tea Planters of yesteryears had a taste for good things of life. They built their luxurious villas with immaculately kept gardens and orchards, in the most scenic spots. Nowadays, most of them have become upmarket boutique hotels. Viharagala in Haputale in the central hills is one such tea bungalow

The mini bus was waiting for us at Haputale Railway Station. It was dark and rain was falling. It has been a long journey by train from Colombo and all of us were feeling it. We drove through Haputale town and downhill on the Wellavaya Road and turned left on to the long, tree lined drive to the house. Three members of Viharagala staff with torches and umbrellas were waiting for us. “Watch out for leeches!” they warned. We climbed the stone steps to the beautiful house with its enormous verandah. We felt relaxed and at home. We sat in…