Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 9. Part 1


Life In An Eco Village Day 1 – Wednesday Kadolana Kadolana Eco Village is in the midst of a disused cinnamon plantation at the edge of Madu River in southern Sri Lanka. The nearest town is Ambalangoda. It opened only four months ago and I read about it in Royston Ellis’s newsletter only last Sunday.…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 8


It is hot and humid in Colombo but frangipani is in bloom. The crabs I got from the fabulous wholesale market yesterday was cooked for Sunday lunch and the red mullet will be baked for supper. Earlier in the week I attended an almsgiving and a street art festival and went to my first ever wine…

A Brief Look At “Beautified” Colombo


(Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 7) Who Cares? The other day I had dinner with a well to do Colombo businessman at the Royal Colombo Golf Club. “I am a member of all the clubs in the City” he boasted as we sipped Rockland gin and tucked in to Black Pork. “Colombo has…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 6


Kinross Club & Monkeys of Westbury I had an overdose of public holidays this week. Tuesday and Wednesday were public holidays and most took Monday off as well. After a sluggish Thursday and Friday, we were on to the weekend again. Tuesday was Thai Pongal – the Tamil Harvest Festival and Wednesday – Poya Full Moon Day. I…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 3


Christmas I spent Christmas on the beach. Negambo used to be a sleepy fishing village. Now, Beach Side is studded with tourist hotels, some good and many seedy. It is also the stronghold of Sri Lankan Drug Barons. I drove to The Beach Christmas morning with Renu and Nick who fled the London cold and arrived…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 2


Full Moon Day Monday was Full Moon Day. It is a public holiday in Sri Lanka and a holy day for Sri Lankan Buddhists. Many spend the day in temples, clad in white, meditating and taking part in religious ceremonies. Alcohol is not sold and it is possible that fewer murders, rapes and other acts…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 1


Fleeing Winter Yorkshire was cold, wet and miserable and the approaching winter looked threatening. I wanted to be in a warmer, exotic place where the sun would warm my tired bones. So, one freezing December morning I took a taxi to Manchester airport and flew to Sri Lanka. The Emirates Airbus 380 was a joy…

Scrap Heaps Of A Thirty Year War


The thirty year civil war in Sri Lanka ended in May 2009. The most potent weapon of the LTTE or Tamil Tigers was the suicide bomber. Since the war ended it has been possible to visit the former LTTE controlled areas in the north of the country and the LTTE bases in the Wanni jungle…

Nanthikadal – Place Where A War Ended


The lagoon looks serene. The evening light gives the gentle waves caressing the shore an amber hue. Egrets stand still in the tall grass and pipits and larks take off and land incessantly. A lonely Brahminy Kite circles lazily overhead and lapwings break the intense silence with their high pitched ‘did he do its.’  Two…

High Tea At Galle Face


Yesterday I went to high tea at Galle Face Hotel in Colombo. Some say this venerable Sri Lankan hotel, opened in 1864, is the oldest this side of the Suez, standing as it does at the edge of the Galle Face Green, overlooking the Indian Ocean. The Verandah was already filling up, mostly with Sri…