“Wedged between brooding mountains and a moody corner of the bay, the achingly atmospheric Kotor is perfectly at one with its setting. Hemmed in by staunch walls snaking improbably up the surrounding slopes, the town is a medieval maze of museums, churches, cafe-strewn squares and Venetian palaces and pillories. It’s a dramatic and delightful place where the past coexists with the present; its cobblestones ring with the sound of children racing to school in centuries-old buildings, lines of laundry flutter from wrought-iron balconies, and hundreds of cats – the descendants of seafaring felines – loll in marble laneways.“ – Lonely Planet
The sun came up from behind the mountains on the other side of the bay and swallows chirped and dashed about. I walked to the top of the steep hill on which our apartment stood and watched Kracisi slowly come to life. “It’s sausage and eggs for breakfast” Rana called out. There were cherries, figs, apricots and pots of fresh coffee too.
It is only 14 km from Kracisi to Kotor situated in the secluded tip of Kotor Bay and the drive took less than half an hour. Parking is not easy in Kotor but we managed to find space near the North Gate of the fortified medieval Old Town. An enormous cruise ship berthed right at the tip of the Bay towered above us. We crossed the Skurda, collected a town map from the tourist office and walked through the 1555 Sea Gate with the post-World War II sign “What belongs to others we don’t want, ours we don’t give.” in to the maze of narrow streets and pretty little squares that is the Old City.
We had lunch at the Bella Vista at the edge of the Bay, just outside Kotor. We sipped good white wine, ate black rice and watched cruise ships glide by while Seren slept.
- The North Gate car park charges 0.90EUR/hour or 20EUR/day
- Entrance to the Old Town and maps from the Tourist Office are free
- Walk on the ramparts costs Euro 8.50 per person