Barberyn…Where Moors First Landed


I took the scenic coastal road to Colombo from Kadolana last Saturday and stopped at Beruwela for lunch. This predominantly Muslim town is considered to be the place where first Arab traders landed in Sri Lanka in the 8th century. They probably came from the Yemen and called their landfall Barberyn. The Kechchimalai Mosque, one…

Madu River Safari


Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 9, Part 3, Friday Together with Randombe Lake to which it is connected by two narrow channels, Madu River forms a 915 ha shallow wetland with emerald green water in South-Western Sri Lanka. It is little known and seldom visited despite being the second largest wetland in the country…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 9. Part 1


Life In An Eco Village Day 1 – Wednesday Kadolana Kadolana Eco Village is in the midst of a disused cinnamon plantation at the edge of Madu River in southern Sri Lanka. The nearest town is Ambalangoda. It opened only four months ago and I read about it in Royston Ellis’s newsletter only last Sunday.…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 8


It is hot and humid in Colombo but frangipani is in bloom. The crabs I got from the fabulous wholesale market yesterday was cooked for Sunday lunch and the red mullet will be baked for supper. Earlier in the week I attended an almsgiving and a street art festival and went to my first ever wine…

A Brief Look At “Beautified” Colombo


(Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 7) Who Cares? The other day I had dinner with a well to do Colombo businessman at the Royal Colombo Golf Club. “I am a member of all the clubs in the City” he boasted as we sipped Rockland gin and tucked in to Black Pork. “Colombo has…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 6


Kinross Club & Monkeys of Westbury I had an overdose of public holidays this week. Tuesday and Wednesday were public holidays and most took Monday off as well. After a sluggish Thursday and Friday, we were on to the weekend again. Tuesday was Thai Pongal – the Tamil Harvest Festival and Wednesday – Poya Full Moon Day. I…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 5


Poison On A Plate The first week of 2014 started with a few headaches. The cook went off sick, the fishmonger went on holiday, the car broke down, drains next door got blocked and flooded my back garden and the heat became intense. The only silver lining was the first sight of a Glossy Ibis…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 4


Mount Lavinia The gleaming white Victorian mansion stands on the hillside above the sea. It has stood there for over 200 years. Sir Thomas Maitland, the British Colonial Governor of Ceylon, as the island was called then, built the mansion in 1806 as his personal residence just outside Colombo. He fell in love with a…

Three Months In Sri Lanka – Week 3


Christmas I spent Christmas on the beach. Negambo used to be a sleepy fishing village. Now, Beach Side is studded with tourist hotels, some good and many seedy. It is also the stronghold of Sri Lankan Drug Barons. I drove to The Beach Christmas morning with Renu and Nick who fled the London cold and arrived…